Nissan 2013 Altima No Electric Power to Open Car Fix Guide

No electric power preventing your 2013 Nissan Altima from unlocking? This fix guide pinpoints the most common culprits—dead key fob battery, faulty door lock actuator, or a drained 12V battery—and delivers step-by-step solutions to restore access fast. Learn how to bypass the system manually, test electrical connections, and avoid costly dealership visits with simple DIY troubleshooting. Regain entry and power efficiently—no tools or expertise required.

Key Takeaways

• Check the 12V battery first – Weak or dead batteries prevent power door access.
• Inspect fuses and relays – Blown fuses disrupt power to door actuators.
• Test the key fob battery – Replace if unresponsive to rule out remote issues.
• Verify door lock switch operation – Faulty switches may block power signals.
• Use manual override – Access via physical key slot if electronics fail.
• Scan for BCM errors – Body Control Module faults can cut door power.

Understanding the Problem: Why Your 2013 Altima Won’t Open

Imagine this: You’re rushing to get to work, late for a meeting, and you press the unlock button on your key fob. Nothing happens. The doors don’t budge. No lights flash. No beep. Just silence. You try the physical key, but even that feels stiff or unresponsive. You’re locked out—and your Nissan 2013 Altima has no electric power to open the car. Sound familiar?

This isn’t just a minor inconvenience. It’s a full-blown crisis, especially if you’re in a hurry or it’s late at night. The 2013 Altima is a reliable midsize sedan, but like any car, it’s not immune to electrical gremlins. When the electric system fails to unlock the doors, it can stem from several root causes—most of which are fixable with the right knowledge and tools. The good news? You don’t need to call a tow truck or a mechanic right away. With a bit of troubleshooting, you can often solve the issue yourself. This guide walks you through the most common reasons why your 2013 Altima has no electric power to open the car and how to fix them—step by step, with empathy and practicality.

Common Causes of No Electric Power to Open the Car

When your Altima refuses to respond to the key fob or interior door switches, it’s usually not one single problem. Instead, it’s a symptom of an underlying electrical or mechanical failure. Let’s break down the most frequent culprits.

1. Dead or Weak Key Fob Battery

This is the number one reason people think their car has no electric power. The key fob is a small device, and its battery—typically a CR2032 coin cell—lasts about 2 to 4 years. When it dies, the fob can’t send a signal to the car’s receiver, so the doors won’t unlock electronically.

Real-life example: A friend of mine once spent 20 minutes trying to unlock his 2013 Altima in freezing rain. He even tried the manual key, but the door wouldn’t open. After replacing the key fob battery, it worked instantly. The fob was sending a weak signal, not enough to trigger the system.

Tip: Test your key fob by pressing the lock/unlock buttons near a smartphone camera. If you see a faint red light through the lens, the fob is emitting a signal. No light? Replace the battery.

2. Dead Car Battery

The car battery powers everything—from the ignition to the door locks. If it’s dead or severely discharged, the entire electrical system goes dark. You might notice other signs: dim interior lights, a slow crank when starting, or no response from the dashboard.

But here’s the catch: Sometimes the battery isn’t fully dead—it’s just low enough to prevent the door actuators from working. The 2013 Altima uses electric actuators in each door, and they need a certain voltage threshold to operate.

Tip: Try opening the trunk with the key fob (if it has a trunk release button). If the trunk opens but the doors don’t, the battery is likely the issue.

3. Faulty Door Lock Actuators

Each door in your Altima has a small electric motor called an actuator that physically moves the lock mechanism. Over time, these can fail due to wear, moisture, or electrical shorts. A single bad actuator might not affect all doors—but if the driver’s door actuator fails, you’re stuck outside.

Note: In some cases, the actuator makes a faint clicking sound but doesn’t unlock. That’s a sign it’s getting power but the motor is jammed or broken.

4. Blown Fuse or Relay Failure

The door lock system is protected by fuses and controlled by relays in the under-hood fuse box or interior fuse panel. A blown fuse (often labeled “DOOR LOCK” or “BODY”) or a failed relay can cut power to the entire locking system.

Tip: Check the fuse box using your owner’s manual. Look for a 10A or 15A fuse related to door locks. Swap it with a known-good fuse of the same rating to test.

5. Wiring Harness Issues

The wiring that runs from the car body into the doors (via rubber boots in the door jamb) is vulnerable. Repeated opening and closing can wear out the wires, causing intermittent or complete failure. This is especially common in older Altimas.

Signs: The doors work sometimes, or only one side responds. You might also notice issues with power windows or side mirrors—same wiring harness.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting: What to Check First

Don’t panic. Start with the simplest fixes and work your way up. This methodical approach saves time and money. Here’s how to troubleshoot your 2013 Altima’s no electric power issue.

Step 1: Check the Key Fob

• Replace the key fob battery with a fresh CR2032. They cost less than $5 at any drugstore or auto parts store.
• Try unlocking the car from 5–10 feet away. Sometimes proximity matters.
• Test the fob with a smartphone camera (as mentioned earlier).
• If you have a spare key fob, try that one. If it works, the original fob is the problem.

Pro tip: Keep a spare CR2032 in your glove box. You’ll thank yourself later.

Step 2: Test the Car Battery

• Use a multimeter to check the battery voltage. A healthy battery reads 12.6V or higher when the car is off.
• Below 12.4V? The battery is weak. Below 12V? It’s likely dead.
• Try jump-starting the car. If the doors unlock after the jump, the battery was the culprit.
• Even if the car starts, a low battery can still prevent door actuators from working.

Note: A jump start might not always unlock the doors immediately. Wait 30–60 seconds for the system to reset.

Step 3: Use the Manual Key

• Your Altima has a physical key slot on the driver’s door handle. Slide the key out of the fob (press the release button).
• Insert the key and turn it. If the door opens manually, the issue is electrical, not mechanical.
• But if the key is stiff or won’t turn, the lock cylinder might be seized. Spray it with WD-40 or graphite lubricant and work the key gently.

Warning: Don’t force the key. You could break it off in the lock.

Step 4: Inspect Fuses and Relays

• Open the fuse box under the hood (driver’s side) and the interior fuse panel (left side of the dashboard).
• Refer to your owner’s manual for fuse locations. Look for:
  • “Door Lock” fuse (10A or 15A)
  • “Body Control” fuse
  • “Power Door Locks” relay
• Pull each fuse and check for a broken filament. Use a fuse puller tool or needle-nose pliers.
• Replace any blown fuses with the exact same rating. Never use a higher amp fuse—it’s a fire hazard.
• Swap the door lock relay with a similar one (e.g., horn relay) to test.

Step 5: Listen for Actuator Sounds

• Have someone press the unlock button on the fob while you listen at the driver’s door.
• You should hear a faint click or whirring sound from inside the door.
• No sound? The actuator may be dead or not getting power.
• Clicking but no unlock? The actuator motor is likely jammed or failed.

DIY Fixes You Can Try at Home

Once you’ve identified the likely cause, it’s time to fix it. Most of these repairs can be done in your driveway with basic tools. Let’s go over the DIY solutions.

Replacing the Key Fob Battery

• Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry open the fob case.
• Remove the old battery. Note the + and – orientation.
• Insert the new CR2032 battery. Close the case.
• Test immediately. If it works, you’re golden.

Cost: $3–$8. Time: 2 minutes.

Jump-Starting the Car to Restore Door Power

• Use jumper cables and another car (or a portable jump starter).
• Connect the cables properly: red to dead battery (+), red to good battery (+), black to good battery (–), black to a grounded metal point on the dead car (not the battery).
• Start the good car. Wait 2–3 minutes. Try starting the Altima.
• Once running, press the unlock button. The doors should respond.

Tip: If the car starts but doors still don’t unlock, turn the ignition off and on again. This can reset the body control module.

Replacing a Blown Fuse

• Buy a fuse kit (under $10) with common ratings (10A, 15A, 20A).
• Use the fuse puller to remove the old fuse.
• Insert the new fuse. Make sure it’s snug.
• Test the door locks.

Note: If the new fuse blows immediately, there’s a short circuit. Don’t keep replacing fuses—call a mechanic.

Accessing and Testing the Door Lock Actuator

• Remove the door panel (see next section for details).
• Locate the actuator—it’s a small black box near the lock mechanism.
• Disconnect the electrical connector.
• Use a multimeter to check for voltage when the fob is pressed. No voltage? The issue is upstream (wiring, fuse, relay).
• Voltage present but no movement? The actuator is bad.
• Replace the actuator (available online for $30–$60).

Pro tip: Buy a replacement actuator with a warranty. Some fail within months.

Lubricating the Door Lock Cylinder

• Use a straw to spray graphite lubricant (not WD-40) into the key hole.
• Insert the key and turn it several times.
• Wipe off excess to prevent dirt buildup.

Why graphite? It’s dry and won’t attract dust. WD-40 can gunk up the lock over time.

When to Remove the Door Panel (And How to Do It Safely)

Sometimes, the problem is hidden behind the door panel. Removing it gives you access to the actuator, wiring, and lock mechanism. But it’s easy to damage trim clips or break plastic parts if you’re not careful.

Tools You’ll Need

• Trim removal tool (or a flathead screwdriver wrapped in tape)
• Socket wrench (8mm or 10mm, depending on your model)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Plastic pry tools (optional but recommended)

Step-by-Step Door Panel Removal

1. Remove the armrest screw: Open the small cover on the armrest. You’ll find a screw underneath. Remove it.
2. Take out the door handle trim: Use a trim tool to pry off the small plastic cover around the interior door handle. There’s usually a screw behind it.
3. Unscrew the door panel: Look for screws at the bottom of the panel and near the door handle. Remove all of them.
4. Pry off the panel: Starting at the bottom, use the trim tool to release the plastic clips. Work your way around the edges. Don’t pull too hard—clips break easily.
5. Disconnect electrical connectors: Once the panel is loose, you’ll see wiring for the power window, mirror, and speaker. Unplug them carefully. Use labels or take a photo to remember where they go.
6. Lift the panel off: Gently lift it upward to clear the window sill.

What to Check Inside the Door

• Actuator: Look for loose wires, corrosion, or a disconnected plug.
• Wiring harness: Inspect the bundle that runs from the car to the door. Check for frayed wires or broken insulation.
• Lock linkage: Ensure the metal rods connecting the actuator to the lock aren’t bent or detached.

Tip: While you’re in there, lubricate the lock linkage with white lithium grease. It prevents future sticking.

Reinstalling the Door Panel

• Reconnect all electrical plugs.
• Align the panel and press it into place. You’ll hear the clips snap.
• Reinstall all screws. Don’t overtighten—plastic cracks easily.
• Test the door lock and window before finishing.

When to Call a Professional (And What It Might Cost)

DIY fixes are great, but some issues require professional help. Here’s when to stop troubleshooting and call in the experts.

Complex Electrical Problems

If you’ve replaced the battery, fuses, and fob, but the doors still don’t unlock, the issue might be:

• A faulty body control module (BCM)
• Damaged wiring harness (especially in the door jamb)
• Software glitch in the keyless entry system

These require diagnostic tools (like an OBD2 scanner or multimeter with circuit testing) and specialized knowledge.

Multiple Actuator Failures

If two or more door actuators fail, it’s likely a power supply issue—not individual motors. A mechanic can trace the circuit and find the root cause.

Cost Estimates for Professional Repairs

Repair	Parts Cost	Labor Cost	Total Estimate
Replace Door Lock Actuator (one door)	$40–$80	$80–$120	$120–$200
Replace Car Battery	$100–$200	$20–$50	$120–$250
Repair Wiring Harness (door jamb)	$50–$100	$150–$250	$200–$350
Body Control Module Diagnosis	$0 (diagnostic only)	$100–$150	$100–$150
Replace Key Fob (programmed)	$80–$150	$50–$100	$130–$250

Note: Prices vary by location and shop. Always get a written estimate.

What to Ask the Mechanic

• “Can you confirm which fuse or relay controls the door locks?”
• “Is the wiring harness in the door jamb damaged?”
• “Can you test the actuator with power applied?”
• “Do you need to reprogram the key fob after repairs?”

Tip: A reputable shop will explain the problem in plain terms—not just hand you a bill.

Preventing Future Power Issues

Once you’ve fixed the problem, don’t let it happen again. Here’s how to keep your 2013 Altima’s door system running smoothly.

Regular Battery Maintenance

• Check the battery terminals for corrosion. Clean them with baking soda and water.
• Have the battery tested every 6 months (most auto parts stores do this free).
• Replace the battery every 4–5 years, even if it seems fine.

Key Fob Care

• Keep the fob dry. Water can damage the internal circuit.
• Replace the battery every 2–3 years as a preventive measure.
• Store a spare fob in a Faraday bag to protect it from signal interference.

Door Lock Lubrication

• Lubricate the lock cylinder and door hinges once a year.
• Use graphite for locks, white lithium grease for hinges and linkages.

Inspect Wiring Harnesses

• Every 6 months, open the driver’s door and inspect the rubber boot for cracks.
• Look for frayed wires. If you see any, wrap them with electrical tape or replace the harness.

Your 2013 Altima has served you well. A little preventive care keeps it reliable for years to come. And when that key fob finally beeps in the dark, you’ll breathe a sigh of relief—knowing you’ve got the power to fix it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my 2013 Nissan Altima have no electric power to open the car?

This issue is commonly caused by a dead 12V battery, faulty door switches, or a malfunctioning Body Control Module (BCM). First, check the battery voltage and test the key fob battery to rule out simple causes.

How do I open my Nissan 2013 Altima with no electric power?

Use the mechanical key hidden inside your key fob to unlock the driver’s door manually. Insert the key into the keyhole (often covered by a small cap) and turn it to open the door.

Can a bad battery cause “no electric power to open car” in my 2013 Altima?

Yes, a weak or dead 12V battery is the most frequent cause of no electric power in a Nissan 2013 Altima no electric power to open car scenario. Even if the car doesn’t start, the battery must have enough charge to power door locks and lights.

What if my key fob isn’t working and the car has no power?

Replace the key fob battery first, as a dead fob can’t send signals to the car. If the car still has no power, jump-start the battery or use the mechanical key to access the vehicle and inspect the main battery.

How do I reset the Body Control Module (BCM) in my 2013 Altima?

Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10–15 minutes to reset the BCM, which may restore electric power to the doors. Reconnect the battery and test the locks and key fob functionality afterward.

Are there fuse issues linked to no electric power in a 2013 Altima?

Yes, blown fuses (e.g., in the interior fuse box for door locks or BCM) can interrupt power. Consult your owner’s manual to locate and inspect the relevant fuses, replacing any that are damaged.